"The city of hills"

"(...) The following morning we chartered a small schooner for Macao, my intended residence while in China as ladies were then prohibited from going to Canton. A passing notice is due the captain and crew of our little schooner. They were Lascars three in number than whom a more grim visaged trio is seldom seen. Nearly of African hue with high cheek bones and piercing eyes to which their huge mustaches and long peaked beards gave only an appearance the more ferocious. Their dress was exceedingly picturesque. That of the captain wide trowsers of red silk over this a tunic of white muslin reaching just below the knee then another of blue silk some inches shorter and again a close fitting jacket of dark brown velvet richly embroi dered and confined at the waist with a scarf of crimson silk around his neck was suspended a large silver chain and a turban of divers gay colors adorned his head. The tout ensemble was quite imposing.

When we stepped on board the schooner there was every reason to hope that we should reach Macao by twelve o clock, a distance of thirty miles. We were doomed however to disappointment while yet in sight of our ship the wind fell suddenly away and for several hours we lay gently rocking on the ocean. In vain did the captain and crew whistle for the breeze now coaxingly then with angry gesticulations it came not at their bidding.

Even the beautiful scenery by which we were surrounded proved inefficacious to restrain our impatience. At last a slight ripple agitated the calm surface a gentle breeze sprang from the land the sails of our little schooner gradually filled and on we bounded. The breeze soon increased to a gale all sail was taken in and like some frightened bird our schooner was scudding rapidly before the wind every sea washing over our deck.

About eight o clock in the evening we drew near our place of destination which presented a very beautiful appearance, rising like an amphitheatre from the sea its numerous fortified hills the lights gleaming from their summits and from the dwellings on the Praya Granda and over all the moon shining so brightly down rendered the first impressions of Macao, those of a pleasing nature.

Owing to the shallowness of the water no vessels of any size can approach within some hundred yards of the shore, but to remedy this evil there are numerous little boats seemingly no bigger than egg shells, guided entirely by women who make it their business to steer directly for the larger craft as they enter the harbor and convey their passengers etcetera to land.

Two of these little sanpans, as they are called, were soon along side of us but most unfortunately for our haste they no sooner descried a barbarian woman about to spring into their boat than with a shrill cry of mandarin mandarin away they paddled to the shore unheed ing the shouts of tanka tanka boat boat from the captain. They answered only by yells and for nearly an hour we were left pitching and tossing on the still raging sea. At the end of that time,  which seemed interminable, they again ap proached us and we were now suffered to leave the schooner and in a few moments the little sanpan had landed us safely on the Praya Granda, amid a throng of Chinese and Portuguese seems these boat women did not dare to land a barbarian of their own sex until they had first informed the mandarin. It Procuring a guide we proceeded to the residence of an esteemed friend with whom I had been kindly invited to make my sojourn at Macao.

The sun arose the following morning in unclouded splendor and the hour spent in the verandah before breakfast was one of novel interest. The house was situated on the Praya Granda, which forms a semi circle fronting the harbor where the long unbroken seas come rolling in and dash upon the beach only a few yards from the dwellings.

It was a lovely scene the sun shining bright and beautiful upon the waters of the bay just tinging the summits of the rocky isles around and throwing its brilliant rays far over the ocean. Several large ships and brigs were at anchor while others might be seen under full sail standing in and out among the different islands. Chinese junks and fast boats were floating idly near the shore a Canton packet was just rounding a point of land toward which many of the little san pans were rapidly sculling. The beating of gongs and firing of crackers from the numerous Chinese craft near the shore mingled with the merry songs of the sailors the ringing of bells from the different churches - the various groups constantly passing and repassing the Praya, parties of Portuguese hurrying to mass priests in flowing robes, mandarins borne in their palan keens, Chinese compradores and coolies beggars, troops of noisy children added to the lugubrious cries of the venders of live fowls fish & c which they chorus by beating small gongs varied occasionally by an air from the band of the corps stationed at St Peter's Fort, directly fronting the residence of his excellency the governor all combined to render the scene for a time at least very amusing.

Baía da Praia Grande em meados do século 19.
Colina e ermida da Penha à esquerda

My friend proposed taking me first to the Penha, as commanding the most extended view.  Macao is situated on a peninsula connected by a narrow neck of land with the island of Hean shan, across the centre of which runs the boundary wall beyond which no barbarian must dare to pass. The Penha is a high hill at the western extremity of the town on the summit of which stands the ancient hermitage Penha de Franca erected in 1622.

Having completed the ascent by a rocky and uneven path the eye is arrested by one extensive range of the most beautiful scenery. Macao might truly be called the city of hills for they rise in every direction presenting a wild and picturesque appearance heightened by the numerous forts and convents capping their summits.

To the east you have the lofty Mont Charil on which stands Fort Guia directly at its base a rocky point extends into the sea on which is erected Fort St Francis, with the church bearing the same name.

At a little distance from a grove of banians peep forth the white walls of the convent Santa Clara. On another elevation nearly in the centre of the town stands the Monte Fort, fronting the residence of the governor.

On the Praya Granda is St Peter's Fort and on other points are the Bar and Bombarto Forts. Scattered among these lofty hills are the dwellings of the Portuguese English and American residents and separated from near communion with barbarians may here and there be seen the closely packed huts of a Chinese village.

The hermitage Penha de Franca is very much dilapidated and will soon be but a ruin. A part has been lately repaired and rendered tenantable for a few old friars. It is surrounded by a high wall and on one part of this is erected a rude stone cross which Portuguese ships passing the Penha are in the habit of saluting.

Excerto do artigo Recollections of China da autoria de C. H. Butler publicado em 1844 na The Columbian Magazine.

Trata-se de Caroline Hyde Butler Laing (1804-1892) que partiu com o marido Edward (comerciante) de Nova Iorque rumo à China em Outubro de 1836 a bordo do navio Roman tendo regressado aos EUA no início de 1837. A imagem não faz parte da obra referida. O testemunho da Caroline foi feito pela própria num diário. O registo feminino raro na época.