The Costume of China

"The costume of China, illustrated by sixty engravings: with explanations in English and French" é o título de uma obra impressa em Londres no ano de 1804. O ilustrador foi William Alexander. Os seus registos permitiram que chegassem até aos nossos dias detalhes preciosos e inéditos de como a era a China, a paisagem, o povo, a corte e o imperador no final do século 18. E claro, de como decorreu a recepção da primeira embaixa embaixada britânica à China - como se de uma fotografia se tratasse, podem ver-se todos os intervenientes - e dos presentes dados ao imperador.

Os desenhos foram feitos in loco, apenas a lápis, e só depois do regresso a Inglaterra, 'ganhariam' cor.

As ilustrações e recolha de informações foram feitas no decorrer de uma 'embaixada' diplomática dos ingleses à corte imperial em Pequim. Entre as 60 ilustrações a cores de "trajes chineses" estão duas relacionadas com Macau. Na primeira mostra-se o vestuário do responsável pelo fornecimentos da embaixada tendo como fundo a cidade de Macau de acordo com o texto. A segunda mostra uma procissão num funeral chinês tendo como pano de fundo o Porto Interior. Os elementos da missão diplomática inglesa chegaram a Macau ainda em 1792 mas só chegariam a Pequim em 1793.

Portrait of the Purveyor For the Embassy, while the Embassador remained at Macao.

Retrato do Fornecedor da embaixada, enquanto o embaixador - George McCartney - esteve em Macau.

The dress of this figure is the same as is generally worn by the citizens, or middle class of people in China, with variations in the colour; and some difference of form in hats, caps, boots, &c. &c.

The external jacket is of sheep skin, ornamented with crescents of the same material, dyed of another colour, sewed into it at equal distances; and has a collar of sable, or fox skin. This surtout is worn on such mornings and evenings as are fresh and cold; in the day time (if found inconveniently hot) it is laid aside. Under this is worn a vest of figured silk; beneath which is another of white linen, or taffeta; and lastly, a pair of loose drawers: in the summer season these are of linen or silk, and for the winter, they are lined with fur, or quilted with raw silk; and in the northern provinces they are worn, made of skins only.

The cap is composed of a coarse sort of felt, which is very common; and while new, they have the shape of those worn by the Mandarins, (see the Portrait of Van-ta-zhin), but they soon become pliant and misshapen, by wear, or when rain has taken the stiffness from them. The stockings are of nankeen, quilted on the inside with cotton. The shoes are likewise nankeen, with thick soles made of paper.

From the girdle on the right side, hangs a flint and steel, and knife sheath; on the left, purses for tobacco, or snuff.

The box held in his hand contains sweetmeats: a jar of which he entreated the persons of the Embassy to accept as a token of his regard.The back ground, is a scene at Macao.

A Funeral Procession

The leader of this solemn pageant is a priest, who carries a lighted match, with tin-foil and crackers, to which he sets lire when passing a temple or other building for sacred purposes. Four musicians with gongs, flutes, and trumpets follow next; then comes two persons with banners of variegated silk, on the tops of which two lanterns are suspended; these are followed by two mourners clad m loose gowns, and caps of coarse canvas; next to these is the nearest relative, overwhelmed with grief, dressed in the same humble garments, and is prevented from tearing his dishevelled hair by two supporters, who affect to have much ado to keep the frantic mourner from laying violent hands on himself; then follows the corpse, in an uncovered coffin, of very thick wood varnished, on which a tray is placed, containing some viands as offerings; over the coffin is a gay ornamented canopy carried by four men; and lastly, in an open carriage, three females with dejected countenances, arrayed in white, their hair loose, and fillets across their foreheads.

Contrary to European ideas, which comsider white as the symbol of joy, and use it at nuptial celebrations, it is in China the emblem of mourning, and expressive of sorrow. The scene is at Macao: in the fore ground is a large stone with a monumental inscription; in the distance is seen the inner harbour, and the flag staves of a bonzes' temple.