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quinta-feira, 2 de agosto de 2018

Macau no “Panorama” de Leicester Square (Londres) em 1840: 2ª parte

O “Panorama” de Macau da autoria de Robert Burford é constituído por cerca de 20 painéis e, à semelhança de outros produtos na época, era acompanhado de um pequeno livro - com 12 páginas com um desenho/esboço do que era mostrado - que descrevia a cidade ou batalha que se representava em tamanho XXL.
O de Macau foi impresso em 1840, depreendendo-se que foi feito nessa altura. Tendo por base o título do mesmo - Description of a View of Macao in China: Now Exhibiting at the Panorama, Leicester Square. Painted by the proprietor Robert Burford. Printed by Geo Nichols, 1840 - fica-se a saber que a representação de Macau foi pintada pelo próprio Robert Burford, proprietário do espaço onde o mesmo era exibido. Não se pode afirmar com toda a certeza, mas muito provavelmente Burford não esteve em Macau tendo-se ‘inspirado’ em representações contemporâneas do território registadas pelos vários britânicos que viajaram até ao Oriente, nomeadamente com fins comerciais. Quem sabe em trabalhos de George Chinnery (1774-1852) que viveu em Macau entre 1825 e 1852.
Antes da descrição sumária de cada um dos 20 painéis é apresentado um longo texto - total de 12 páginas - que visava dar um contexto a quem visitava o espaço.
“The panorama taken from the Bay of Typa exhibits the city on what may be termed the British side consequently in its most interesting aspect. Immediately in front of the spectator facing the east is the fine crescent curve of the Praya grande a broad and spacious quay unbroken with the exception of a small fort defending a landing place by any wharf or jetty. The houses which present their fronts to the water and occupy the whole of the vast extent of the semi-circle are large substantial buildings in the European style of simple architecture with large gables and little or no ornament yet being painted of many colours have a varied and pleasing appearance. At the back of the line rising like an amphitheatre on the sloping ground numerous other houses are seen intermixed with churches and sacred edifices always conspicuous objects in a catholic town large gardens and light and airy summer houses the highest portion being broken into several hills crowned by forts or monasteries has a fine effect and far above all rising from a neighbouring island towers a mountain of considerable elevation and picturesque shape forming a noble back ground.
The extremity of the city towards the right is flanked by an extensive convent with a fort of some strength on the cliff above the opposite extremity of the Praya is defended by a similar fort and on a high rock behind stands a considerable and strongly fortified castle giving the whole an air of European consequence and military importance. (...)
Surgem ainda inúmeras referências sobre aspectos da história, geografia, política e sociedade de Macau no início do século 19, incluindo-se algumas ‘notas’ de actualidade. Refere-se, por exemplo, que na época o espaço das denominadas ruínas de S. Paulo estava a ser usado como cemitério, e são dadas várias indicações sobre a melhor forma de navegação e ancoramento na região apresentando-se dados sobre a profundidade do delta do rio e os locais possíveis para ancorar.
“The Portuguese who were the first Europeans that pushed their to the southern confines of China are said to have landed several times on then desert rock of Macao in the early part of the 16th century and been permitted by the Mandarins whom they either intimidated by force or silenced by bribes to erect huts under the pretense of drying goods or repairing their vessels they took gradual possession of the spot and having subsequently rendered the Chinese the signal service of the seas and numerous islands of the Gulf of China of the hordes of by which they were infested they were about the year 1557 vassals of the Celestial Empire and were allowed to erect a town and factory which they called Porto de Amacao on the payment of an annual or ground rent of 500 taels which is continued to the present day also duties on merchandize and by conforming in all respects to the laws.
China Embassies followed between the courts of Lisbon and Peking ships shortly arrived with numerous settlers the population increased forts and churches were built and substantial houses replaced the huts and to use the words of a Mandarin dispatch Macao formerly an insignificant place is now a kingdom it has many forts and a great and insolent population.
At first a deputation went annually to Canton to transact business paying heavy duties and making costly presents but the trade increased so rapidly that in 1588 permission was obtained for two visits in the year in January for the Indian and in June for the Japan trade In this small spot the Portuguese carried on for a long time a very considerable and most lucrative trade not only with the Chinese but also with other countries in eastern Asia particularly Japan Tunquin Cochin China and Siam Whilst they were without competition their profits were immense large sums were transmitted to their mother country and visible marks of their greatness still exist in the costly buildings of the city but no sooner did the Dutch and English enter into the China trade than their gains rapidly decreased the spirit of enterprize declined and Macao began to decay. Events took place which deprived the Portuguese of all intercourse with Japan in 1640. Revolutions in the affairs of other countries rendered their speculations precarious often unfortunate the exactions of the Chinese officers and the jealousies which has always led them to endeavour to curtail the few privileges granted have all tended to depress their trade and no vigorous efforts have ever been made to redeem their losses.”
O autor dá ainda conta de aspectos contemporâneos do território na primeira metade do século XIX:
“Macao is built on two ridges of rock forming a narrow peninsula extending to the southward from the large island of Heang Shan being divided from the main by a wall crossing the narrowest part which effectually restricts the Portuguese to the limits assigned them and enables the Chinese by stopping the supply of provisions always to bring them to terms when any disputes occur. The whole settlement is not more than eight miles in circumference being little more than three miles in length from the wall to the extreme south western point and not exceeding one mile across in its widest part. The town is divided into three districts or parishes taking their names from their respective churches. The streets are narrow steep and irregular being frequently interrupted by flights of steps rendered necessary by the unequal surface of the rocks which they follow.
The few public buildings are handsome particularly the senate house and the thirteen churches and monasteries. The houses are of stone or brick without much exterior elegance but are spacious and convenient in their interior arrangement parthose of the Praya Grande occupied by British and other merchants and those of the Praya of the inner harbor. There are scarcely any shops but the markets are large and are plentifully supplied by the Chinese with meat fruit and vegetables the two latter being of the finest description. Carriages of course would be almost useless in a city so constructed the usual conveyance is the sedan chair. The inner harbour is spacious and capable of affording anchorage to a large number of ships of three or four hundred tons larger ships must be lightened before they can come in. Two centuries ago the Chinese granted permission for twenty five Portuguese or Spanish vessels to enter the harbour the same number only can receive that indulgence at present and are regarded as the identical vessels all others must lie in Macao roads or in the Ty-pa.
In 1834 the Portuguese had but fifteen vessels together 4185 tons the number has been gradually decreasing and at the present time does not in all probability exceed ten. The city contains a military and two general hospitals two or three public schools and a library and museum founded in 1806 by the Honourable East India Company which was progressing well previous to the dissolution of the factory at Canton which deprived it of some of its most eminent contributors. The Chinese have a Pagode within the walls and three in the small villages adjacent. The Portuguese population in the seventeenth century numbered about 19,500 souls it at present consists of about 4,000 with above a thousand slaves. The Chinese including the three small villages within the boundary and those living entirely in the small boats upon the water are estimated at 30,000.
The Portuguese authorities are a governor a prefect chief justice and a senate composed of two judges three aldermen and a procurador who is the organ of communication with the Chinese who have two Mandarins a Keun min Foo or chief magistrate and a Tso tang or district magistrate. All the arts requisite for the comforts or conveniences of life are exercised by the Chinese there is scarcely to be found a single Portuguese by birth or descent who is an artist a shopkeeper or a labourer they are two proud to pursue any other industry than commerce or navigation. Formerly there were large manufactories for cannon and gunpowder at Macao but they have long since ceased at the present time decay is visibly stamped on everything both civil and religious. (...)"
O 'panfleto' com as ilustrações e respectivas legendas. De Robert Burford
Descrição dos painéis
Na verdade são dois os painéis pintados. No primeiro surgem 43 pontos assinalados numa ilustração da Praia Grande feita a partir do delta do rio. No segundo painel, com um total de 17 pontos assinalados, apresenta-se uma ilustração de motivos marítimos composta por várias embarcações enquadradas pela Taipa, “nove ilhas” e “entrada para o Porto Interior”.
Como referências geográficas temos as “nove ilhas” descritas como “The Cow Chow Yaong or the Nine Islands are a cluster of small rocky islets near the eastern side of the Island of Heang shan heen on which Macao stands, and which is the largest of what may be termed the Canton Archipelago; they are about five miles and a half from the eity”.

Já a baía da ilha da Taipa é descrita assim: “A wide semi-circular bay called the outer harbour which offers secure anchorage to vessels of a small size. It is subject to the influence of the ebbs and floods from the Gulf of China and is often visited by dreadful hurricanes called Typhoons. At the entrance men of war of 60 guns may anchor and at the outlet opposite the city vessels of 7 or 800 tons lie safe sheltered from the north south east and south west winds; the distance between the two is about five miles. The entrance to the gulf is extremely easy and is at least 60 miles in breadth scores of small but lofty islands afford at once distinct land marks and a choice of channels on one of these at the western side stands Macao. For nearly forty miles towards Canton the Choo Keang or Pearl River preserves an average breadth of 15 miles.”
Entre os 60 pontos assinalados nos dois painéis Robert refere, entre outros: Forte do Bom Parto, Ermida da Penha, Jardins do Sr. Paiva (corresponde ao jardim adjacente ao actual Palácio do Governo), Praia Grande, Missão Americana, S. Lourenço, Palácio do Governo, Fortim de S. Pedro, Tancares, Alfândega chinesa, Ilha da Lapa, Colégio de S. José, Igreja de Santo Agostinho, Igreja de S. Paulo, Sé Catedral, Fortaleza do Monte, Convento de Santa Clara, Ermida da Guia, Convento de S. Francisco, Ilha da Taipa, Nove Ilhas, Juncos, Lorchas, etc…
Todos os pontos referenciados têm um pequeno texto de enquadramento denominado “Explanation of the plate”. O número 56, é sobre as “lorchas”: “None but Portuguese or Spanish ships are allowed to enter the inner harbour or to trade directly with Macao and these are licenced only to the number of twenty five. This exclusion has given rise to a large outside trade in Macao roads or the Ty-pa. If a cargo is to be landed notice is given to the governor who sends a number of large Portuguese boats called Lorchas, in which the goods are taken to the shore they are then put into the custom house, a report accompanied by presents made to the Chinese civilian, and the whole is arranged to the satisfaction of all parties.”O número 37 diz respeito a “S. Paolo”, as Ruínas de S. Paulo, e pode ler-se: “The Jesuits possessed a house on this spot from the earliest period where those of their society lodged in their way to Japan. The church and college were erected in 1562. The church having been burnt a noble building was according to the inscription erected in 1602 dedicated Nossa Senhora de Madre de Deos but more commonly called St Paul's which was again destroyed by fire in the night of January 26 1834. The facade which is still standing was composed of pillars of the Ionic and Corinthian orders wholly of granite and finely ornamented with sculpture. The college was very extensive there having been at times more than 90 pupils besides accomodation for 70 or 80 missionaries. This seat of learning was dissolved by Joseph I in 1762. It is now used as a burial place.”O “Forte Monte” (número 39), a Fortaleza do Monte: The Mount of St Paul commonly called the Monte was first fortified in 1622. Liberal presents were given to the Mandarins to incline them to wink at the erection of a strong wall which may be perceived running in a northeastern direction to the sea near St Francis. The fortress was finished in 1626 and was for a considerable period the residence of the military governor. This together with the four other forts and the small fort at the landing mount in all 130 guns of different caliber. The military force of Macao is called 400 men and sixteen officers but they rarely exceed half that number."

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